Harwell Action Group Member Sue Greatbanks and daughter Catherine follow the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in Peru

If I’m going to Peru I’ll do something worthwhile as well……

As 2008 was a year of big birthdays in my family- I was 60 in June and my daughter 30 in May, we decided to celebrate in style by going somewhere challenging! As my other daughter is getting married in August when to go was a problem, and so we decided on April.

Machu Picchu and the Inca trail had been on my 'to do' list for many years and so we chose Peru. We flew from Heathrow to Amsterdam and then onto Lima, a modern, cosmopolitan city on the coast in the North of Peru. We had a day of sightseeing, where we discovered some amazing mud brick pyramids, surrounding the city before flying down to Cusco, in the centre of the country. This was to be home for the next four days, to help us acclimatise before the trek. Most of Peru, being part of the Andes Mountain range, is high and altitude can be a problem. Thanks to tablets from my doctor and drinking plenty of coca tea, on tap at our hotel and recommended by the locals, neither of us suffered.

Plaza da Armas, Cusco.

Everything seems to start early in Peru and our trek was no different! We left Cusco early for our one and half hour drive to Ollantaytambo, leaving the last civilised ‘loo’ for the next four days! Why was I worried about sleeping in a tent I wonder?

We had already discovered the locals were keen to sell tourists a wide range of goods for the trek and our short stop in Ollantaytambo was no different. From rubber stops for walking poles to drink bottle holders, ponchos to coca sweets, whatever you might or might not need was available to buy at what for us was pennies but still we haggled, as was expected of us.

My daughter and I at the first control point

At the start of the trail, which follows the Urubamba River, we had to have our passports stamped before crossing the river and starting our climb. On the way we passed several Inca sites and saw some truly spectacular mountain scenery. Imagine our surprise when, having walked for about two hours, our guide announced that we were stopping for lunch and led us to a dining tent where a table laid for sixteen, complete with tablecloth and serviettes (albeit paper!) appeared. We sat down to a two course meal and were then ready to carry on!

By about 5pm we reached the first of our camp sites and, although parts of the route were steep we had coped easily with our first day. We were still low enough for the locals to appear with drinks to sell and we spent a relaxed evening, again eating in our dining tent and getting to know our party. Our guides, porters and chef (- yes we had a chef!) were introduced and when it got dark we went to bed. Head torches are a must in a camp with no lights!

The second day was the most difficult, we were only carrying our day packs, our porters carried the tents, cooking equipment, tables and stools, their belongings and the bulk of ours! They were often dressed in shorts and t-shirts and wearing open sandals as they ran past us on the trail! As often as e climbed up we also walked down and this was often more difficult. We were now at 4,200 metres and had to stop frequently for drinks and to catch our breath. The birds, flowers and mountain scenery changed constantly and the peace and quiet was amazing. The views from Dead Woman’s Pass are spectacular, I now know why it got this name, and we were all relieved to reach our second camp and find our tents.

The third day found us crossing the second pass at Runkurakay and seeing several Inca ruins on the way. The trail clings to the side of the mountain, with views of the cloudy forest below and although it was another long day it was not as arduous as day two.

On the fourth and last day of our trek we were up at 4 am so that we would see the sun rise over Machu Picchu. We set of by torchlight and arrived at the Sun Gate in time for sunrise. We glimpsed Machu Picchu before the clouds rolled in, along with all the other groups of walkers. There was still a half hours downhill walking before we reached the site itself, but coming in to the city, at the top level, at that hour of the morning (7am) is truly breathtaking.

Our guide was keen to show us around before the tour buses arrived and, although weary, we realised the sense in this and literally had the place to ourselves for the next hour or more. Our guide was determined to share his knowledge of the Incas and their history, the flora and fauna and the culture of his country, whilst still keeping our well being uppermost in his thoughts. When he had showed us around we then had time to explore on our own and realising it might be a long time before we returned to this spot, we did just that! We retuned to that famous spot where everyone has their photograph taken and went up and down the terraces just like the alpacas, there to keep the grass trimmed! My daughter even persuaded a small group of us to find the Inca drawbridge, yet more walking, but staggering to think that they managed to build these amazing sites and link them with trails across the most inaccessible country imaginable! We had our passports stamped at the end of the trail- anyone can buy a t-shirt but only true walkers (well, and me!) have the passport stamp to prove they did walk the Inca trail!

Catherine and I- no we haven’t been ‘photoshopped’ onto the background!

We even made it down to the town below Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes and found the hot springs, another 15 minute walk, uphill, before catching our train back to Cusco. Now that really was too much walking!